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(My focus-stacked image, used for illustration purposes, required 4 images.) Step 4: Focus stack in Affinity Photo But if you fail to capture a necessary file, your final result will look blurry and the stack will be ruined. Affinity can easily handle any extra shots. If you’re just starting out, I’d encourage you to overshoot. Landscape photographers often only capture 2 or 3 images for a focus stack, but macro and product photographers may shoot 10, 20, or 30+ images, especially when working at high magnifications. The number of photos you need to take will vary depending on the lens, the distance to the subject, and the settings you use.
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(If you want to get the background in focus, feel free to keep going!) Keep moving the point of focus farther and farther away, and you’ll eventually cover the subject from front to back. Then adjust your lens so it’s refocused on that spot, and take another photo.Īt this point, you simply need to repeat the above process until you’ve captured sharp photos of the entire subject. Alternatively, review the image on the camera’s monitor zoom on in to see exactly where the image begins to fade out of focus. If your camera has a depth of field preview button, press it and check to see how much of the scene is in focus. So start by focusing on the part of the subject that is closest to you and take a photo. That way, when you open the images in Affinity Photo, the program can blend all the shots together to create a sharp image.
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The goal here is to capture a series of files, with each new image focused on a different portion of your subject. (This is usually done with an AF/MF switch on the side of the lens, though you can sometimes control the focusing mode in your camera’s settings menu.)
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Now that you’ve set up your camera and dialed in the correct settings, switch your lens to its manual focus mode. Only use focus stacking when absolutely necessary! So if you can get the required depth of field without taking extra shots, go that route instead. Realize that focus stacking is a time-consuming process. And set your white balance manually or with a preset don’t leave it on Auto! It’s important that all the photos in the series are identically exposed. (If you’re not confident you got the exposure right, go ahead and take a test shot.) Then, once you’ve dialed in your manual settings, don’t adjust them.
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Adjust the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so you achieve a good exposure. Consider doing a quick inspection of the entire frame before you begin to shoot. You don’t want to get halfway through your stack, then realize that you’ve failed to eliminate a distracting background element.
So make sure your composition looks good before you start. Even a small amount of movement will cause problems!)īy the way: Most focus stacks take 3, 5, or even 20 images. (If you’re photographing a flower, wait for the wind to stop before you begin shooting. Moving subjects will complicate the process too much when you’re just learning the stacking technique – they can easily mess up an otherwise well-executed stack – so make sure your subject is completely stationary. Pick a still subject, then carefully compose your image. Once you bring out your tripod, set up your camera and lens. Step 2: Select your subject and compose your picture
If any of the images don’t match up, Affinity will struggle to merge the files, you’ll end up with ghosting, and the finished image won’t look sharp. You see, you must have all the images in your focus stack framed the exact same way. If the camera does move as you’re making your series of photos, you’ll need to start again. It’s critical that no camera movement is involved. Whenever you plan to do focus stacking, no matter your subject, you must use a tripod.
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